Category: Hunting

How to Take Care of a Alaskan Husky

It is so wonderful when owning an Alaskan Husky because this is one of the rarest sorts from countries to the world. However, apart from their cuties, you should know how to take care of them carefully. This is a great challenge for those who love pooches. Here is how!

An overview of the Alaskan Husky

Like humans, you should have a solid understanding of this sort in advance such as their physical ability, their personality, their concerned health, etc. Look after a husky like you are taking care of your kids.

Some specific information to estimate their lifespans and take care of them

  • Height: from 23 to 26 inches
  • Weight: from 40 to 60 pounds
  • Lifespan: between 12 and 15 years

General physical

In general, Alaskan Husky’s appearance looks like Siberian Huskies. Males will weigh around 50 pounds while females can get about 48 pounds only. This is a more a general sort than a strict breed, they have several colors and patterns.

Mostly, it is said that the Alaskan Husky is bigger and leaner than the Siberian Huskies. Moreover, Alaskan’s eyes are brown while Siberians have blue ones or a combination of brown and blue.

Most Alaskans have great eyesight with strong nostril so that they can find out dangerous signs immediately. Although Alaskans are not good at swimming, they still performance 6 feet from their sitting position.

Their personality

They have various temperaments. They are usually fond of everyone and other dogs, so they are known as friendly dog sorts.

Though Alaskans could be thought that they are a jumper, they do this action when they feel love or comfortable with someone or any dog only. They are also well-trained sorts because they always want to learn new things in their lifetimes.

However, they often wish to change their routine habits and they are so independent. Eventually, you should take over hours to raise the Alaskans. If you are so busy, so choosing an Alaskan will not be a great idea.

Their daily care

It is good news to hear that Alaskans do not need to take care much about their fur. This is a great coat to protect their skin and body in every weather condition.

You just need to take them a shower on a regular basis and you can comb to help them have smooth fur. Of course, they also have shedding process but this is not a common point. Each year, they will get new coat naturally.

Their concerned health

The longevity ranges between 12 and 15 years. They are considered as a healthy breed. However, they still have some diseases which come from their genetics like other dog sorts around the world such as Rentinal Atrophy, Larynx, Hypothyroidism, etc.

How to feed an Alaskan Husky

Like other sorts, you should help them a balanced diet regularly. It is a good idea to combine shop bought food for husky and organic food with a high protein source. When it comes to the dog food selections, you will get several stories behind.

For instance, they do not like raw foods or they have a bad habit to eat commercial dog foods only. Additionally, your pooches are probably allergic with any ingredient in their food. On the other hand, they may get ill that you cannot recognize.

The rule of thumb here is observing them on a regular basis. Then, you should take your own note about theirs like allergies, eating habit, etc. Often go to the vet when you find out any awful signal on their health, including their eyes.

Please keep in mind that you should not feed them with bones. These can damage or make your pooches get some wounds.

If you are owned an outdoor dog, you will need to feed your Alaskan a seasonal diet. In the cold seasons, you can increase fat and protein in their bowl. However, in the hottest conditions, you should cut down both 2 main ingredients on their daily diet. It is difficult to do that but you should practice it!

Make their meal schedule. When you feed them before doing exercises, they do not want to do that. In addition, this will create a dangerous gastric bloat and torsion as well. These probably kill your pooches. After 30 minutes of training, you can begin showing their diet.

Do not forget to take more water to your pooches as many as you can. This is also important when they are training and after that. During the cold months, you should always remind them to drink water. This will support their blood cells smoothly move and preventing dehydration.

How to help your Alaskans do exercise

The number of exercises could depend on how well you are creative. You can throw a dog toy and let them run to catch it.

If you do not have a large yard, you will walk around with them. This is also a great alternation of doing exercise. Or you are able to play with them by having a slight running competition.

If your budget is more available, you will ask for help from a dog whisper. He or she will add more exercises and show you how to do that.

How about the exercising time? The greatest durations are around 30 minutes in the early morning. This is a perfect time when you and pooches can practice the body shapes together with adding more fresh air to your lungs.

How to get a great shower for Alaskans

This part is crucial in the hot season for humans and pooches as well. You can use a water pipe and put it slowly to your dog’s body. Then, you enable to get the dog shower to add to their fur along with slight massage.

After that, remove the shower by fresh water again. Finally, dry them by a soft cloth. Avoid putting the water pipe directly to their body as this may get them hurt and scare about bathing. They do not want to do that in the upcoming time!

Closing thoughts

The fact is that caring an Alaskan is not a daunting task. As a pet owner, you should pay attention to some important points and do it with your heart only! Imagine you are looking after a little kid.

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Top 10 Hearing Protection For Hunting You Should Buy

Top 10 Hearing Protection You Should Buy

If you want something for your shooting, you can’t ignore one for protecting your hearing. Indeed, to become a good hunter, you need a sharp sense of hearing. In fact, most firearms come with a noise level between 140 and 170 decibels. You may get ringing and headaches caused by sounds of above 140 decibels.

But, if you are exposed to even low decibels for a long period of time, your eardrums may be damaged. That’s why it’s important to get an ear protection for your hearing.

Let’s check out this post for top 10 hearing protection on the market today.

Howard Leight by Honeywell Impact Pro (R-01902)

This is one of the best electronic hearing protection for hunting. This is a great choice because of its automatic on and off feature. It allows you to protect your hearing when shooting. Moreover, it comes with the ear muffs. It can be able to reduce the noise to a safe level. It ensures to keep your ears safe. In addition, it helps to determine the direction of the sound for a better experience. Furthermore, it offers an AUX output. Thanks to it, you can talk on the phone or listen to music. It also comes with rubber pressure points. And, you won’t feel uncomfortable when using it. Especially, it can be able to operate for more than 4 hours. But, this unit is a bit bulky.

Protear Electronic Hunting —NRR 23dB

With this product, you won’t feel isolated when protecting your ears. It can help you communicate with others safely. It ensures to prevent you from the loud noise of firearms. With this device, you won’t worry about losing your hearing. It comes with 4 wind-resistant microphones on both sides. Also, you can determine its direction thanks to the iron gauze cover. In addition, it has separate controls for the volume and frequency. It allows you to adjust to focus on low or high-frequency sounds. If you use this device for a long time, you can avoid any pain or a headache. Plus, it comes with comfortable double-foam ear cushioning to fit your head size. But, when wearing this unit, your hair may usually get trapped in it.

Pro For Sho 34dB Shooting Ear Protection

If you are looking for an affordable product, this is made for you. In spite of their price, they are very efficient. They promise to give you a great protection when shooting. Moreover, you can also easily carry them. Especially, it allows you to fold when you don’t use it. They can help to protect your ears while you still can talk with other people around you. It can be able to reduce the noise level to a safe range of 34 decibels. These devices are durable because of their high-quality materials. They are great choices for preventing hearing loss. They are available in 2 different sizes for both adults and children. But, they are not good choices for those who have large heads. And, these devices normally become hot after long hours of use.

Noise Cancelling Safety Ear Muffs Ear Protection Defenders Earmuffs

This is also one of the best tactical ear protection. This is a great combination of noise-dampening soft ear cushions and the perfect seals. Thanks to this unit, the noise will be reduced to 25 decibels. So, your ears will be protected when shooting or hunting. Sure, you will feel comfortable when wearing them. Also, it comes with the PU leather as well as the comfortable sponge. You won’t feel any discomfort, even after wearing it for a long time. Plus, it allows you to adjust for the perfect fit. Because it’s lightweight, you can easily pack them wherever you want. You can also choose it for your children. It’s available in a headband design for more comfort. But, if you are looking for one for bigger headers, this is not a good choice.

Walker’s Razor Slim Electronic Muff

The Walker’s Razor Slim Electronic Muff is considered as one of the best ear protection for the shooting range. You can easily and comfortably wear them without weighing your head down. They come with a very low reaction time, so they can help to reduce the noise level. Then, your ears will be protected. Many customers choose this product because of it’s an AUX port to connect your MP3 player. Plus, it’s easy to store them. But, you will feel it hard to identify the direction of the sound when wearing it.

Mpow Noise Reduction Safety Earmuffs

This is also a great choice for your budget. These devices are very lightweight. So, you will feel comfortable when wearing. They have a carry bag. Moreover, it’s easy to fold for storage. This is a good solution for your ears when it comes to loud noises. They are available in many sizes, so it’s easy to find a suitable one for your head. They come with no batteries.

ClearArmor 141001 Shooters Safety Ear Muffs

If you have to be exposed to loud noises, they can damage your ears over time. Indeed, you may have to suffer from a headache and pain, even for low noises. They have the dual technology to protect your eardrums. They allow you to adjust the headband for the most comfort. Plus, they come with a 31 NRR that helps to protect your hearing when shooting. But, these devices are bulky.

Professional Safety Ear Muffs by Decibel Defense

These products are reliable protections when you are shooting or hunting. It can help to protect your ears. And, you can still hear environmental sounds. They are good choices when you have to work with heavy machinery, shooting, watching firework, as well as attending very loud concerts. They allow you to wear comfortably without any pain or discomfort. Because they have a lightweight design, you can store them easily.

X-Aegis Earmuffs Noise Cancelling Hearing Protection

This choice comes with soft noise dampening foam for the noise level reduction. Also, it has a 20 NRR to protect your eyes at the same time. They promise to give you a comfortable feeling when wearing. You can also easily fold them whenever you want. It’s easy to clean them just with water and soap.

Howard Leight by Honeywell Impact Sports Shooting Earmuff

If you need one to reduce the noise on the shooting of a dangerous level of 82 decibels, consider purchasing this device. It can be able to work automatically to protect your eardrums. It can be able to work for about 350 hours. Plus, you can easily adjust the headband. Also, they are lightweight for a storage. But, you shouldn’t use it indoors.

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Alaskan hunting dog and some other best hunting dogs

If you’ve ever spent time with an Alaskan hunting dog, you may know that all dog breeds can be able to hunt. But, some of them can take the blind better than other breeds. For instance, Labs may be the best duck hunters around. In this article, we will give you a list of the best-hunting dogs.

Alaskan hunting Dogs

This dog breed is a powerful and sturdy body built for strength and stamina. This breed is often confused with the Siberian Husky. These dogs are considered as the oldest Arctic sled dogs while their looks aren’t significantly altered over time. These dogs can be able to work in rough as well as cold terrain. As a pet owner, you have to give them a job and consistent leadership. This aims to avoid challenging to handle and becoming bored.

 

Labrador retriever

These dogs come with moisture-repellent coats as well as webbed feet. They are known as great swimmers. That’s why they are perfect choices for duck hunting. Especially, these dogs can be able to bring you back your kill but don’t harm it.  They are very smart, good-natured, and eager to please. So, they are a great hunting companion for many situations.

Coonhound

The Coonhound dogs are persistent and determined hunters. They are capable of staying on track regardless of the conditions or terrain. They are friendly dogs compared with other hunting dogs. Especially, you may not know these dogs actually tree the neighborhood cats.

German short-haired pointer

These dogs are known as bird dogs. But, they are good at tracking land animals. It’s easy to train these dogs because they are smart. These dogs can be able to scent best for all the bird dogs. But, these dogs need a lot of activity as well as stimulation.

Brittany

The Brittany is an intelligent, eager to be trained to hunt, and high energy dog breed. They are considered as a bird dog. They can be able to point and retrieve. These dogs are relatively smaller than most other hunting dogs. That’s why they have become a common choice for families as well. They tend to roam because of curiosity. Thus, you need to give them a good training.

Beagle

This dog breed is one of the excellent hunting companions because of their familiar howling. It can get them in trouble with your neighbors. They are considered as a great hunting dog both in parks and alone because of their strong scenting ability, merry personality, and high energy. It’s essential to train these dogs well because they are a bit stubborn. They are a great option for rabbit or quail hunting due to their small size.

Spanish water dog

You can’t confuse this breed with First Dog, Bo, or the Obamas’ Portuguese water dog. In other countries, pet owners use this dog breed to herd sheep or goats. But, it’s best to use them as a bird dog in the water. These dogs come with a thick coat. That’s why they aren’t a good choice for hunting in dense brush. In addition, people also use these dogs in law enforcement bomb, search-and-rescue missions, and narcotics divisions as well.

Golden retriever

Like the Labrador retriever , this dog is a friendly and popular breed. It’s also a great companion on a duck hunt. These dogs are highly smart and easy to train. In addition, these dogs come with a friendly disposition. Also, they are hard workers. Most pet owners use these dogs as search and rescue dogs. Furthermore, they are energetic and active. And, you will have to give these dogs a lot of activity.

Pointer

These dogs are known as a great combination of other breeds, including greyhounds, foxhounds, and coonhounds. That’s why this dog breed is considered as a good hunter. They are not only strong but also good stamina. As the name suggests, these dogs can be able to point out the birds as well as others. Especially, these dogs are capable of hunting for hours without losing energy. So, you need to give them a lot of activity once they are not on a hunt.

English springer spaniel

Many people are fooled by these dog’s small size and sweet disposition. They are one of the best excellent hunters. Also, many owners choose them due to their high energy. In addition, they can be able to adapt to many different types of terrain. They come with a gentle grip. That makes them great for retrieving birds. These dogs are eager to please. In addition, they are also considered as a great family companion.

Fox terrier

As their name, these dogs are used to hunt fox. They are a great option for small animals and birds because they are small and stamina. Also, these dogs are used for hunting today. These dogs fit into cramped spaces because of their small size.

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Retrieving Birds Training For Hunting Dog

The object in delaying actual bird retrieving was to avoid creating in the dog a desire to pick up and carry birds before he learned to point staunchly and to be steady to wing and shot. To have done this in the opposite order would have resulted in such problems as the dog’s looking for the bird instead of using his nose, getting in too close, and worst of all, breaking point in an attempt to catch it.

It is logical, on the other hand, that if the dog is taught, temptations and therefore problems are less likely to arise. The fact that dummies were used earlier in retrieving is immaterial as the dog will not have connected these with birds. They have merely served to teach him to pick up, carry, and deliver correctly.

As with staunchness and steadiness-to-wing training, it is advisable to use the check line at first and let your helper do the shooting, this time using only the shotgun, as some birds are going to be shot. If you were doing the shooting, your attention would be distracted at the very moment your dog would be most likely to break and run in, which is the time you would have the gun to your shoulder. There is no way you can watch the dog for those few seconds, and he will sense it.

Furthermore, it is most important from this stage in training that both you and your helper be fully aware of two other fundamental principles which must be rigorously observed. These are as follows:

(1) Never shoot a bird over a dog which breaks and runs in as the bird flies. The gunner should always pause first to see that the dog has held before taking the shot. This is because, as I have said before, a retrieve is a reward for doing right. If he breaks, he has done wrong, so no reward should be forthcoming.

(2) Never shoot over a pointing dog a bird which he has not pointed. The bird may, for instance, fly off as the dog is approaching it. If this happens it must be left strictly alone with no shot fired. When hunting wild birds later, there are bound to be occasions when a bird will flush which the dog has not pointed. This will happen often with grouse and sometimes with pheasent. Woodcock tend to hold fairly well, but they too can be fickle. The rule of thumb, especially during a dog’s first season or two, should be to ignore all birds that flush of their own accord and those which you are unsure whether or not he has pointed. This demands self-discipline in great measure, especially if the bird happens to be the first shootable grouse of the day after three hours in the woods! It is a rule most hunters

would not be prepared to go along with, but if you are a dog man more than a hunter, as I hope you are, you’ll have to make up your mind to accept it.

If you do shoot birds over a pointing dog when you cannot tell for certain whether he pointed, you may in fact be shooting birds he has flushed. And birds shot over a pointing dog that he had knowingly flushed lead directly down the slippery slope to unstaunch points and general unsteadiness. Be staunch yourself, and you’ll reap the benefit in seasons to come.

Start by hunting the dog into the area where the birds have been planted, check as usual to see that the dog is staunchly holding his point, then stand on the line. Wait a few seconds and give your helper the nod to walk in and flush the bird. As the bird flies, concentrate on watching the dog, not the bird. Your helper will have noted its location when he shot it, and hopefully so will the dog. When the bird is down, wait a while as you would if it were a dummy and be ready to act, because if a break is going to occur, that’s when it will happen.

Don’t let the dog retrieve the first two or three birds that are shot over him, even though he remains good and steady. Have your helper walk out and pick them up in full view of the dog. As he walks out for a bird, say “Gone away” to the dog, and nothing more unless you have to. Let the dog take a sniff at each bird collected and, as you progress, walk out to pick one up yourself now and then, making quite sure he stands his ground. Now you will appreciate the value of having done this earlier with the dummies, when you allowed him to collect only the ones you wanted.

Repeat the process for another couple of sessions, leaving the check cord in place despite the fact that he’s holding, because next you are going to let him do some actual bird retrieving. They will not be, for the moment, the birds just shot, but cold dead birds from the previous training session. Make sure they are clean and free of blood and have your helper carry them in a pocket or bag.

I prefer pigeons for this but naturally if up until now you have always used quail, by all means use dead quail instead. The reason for using cold dead birds at first is that it tends to discourage a young dog from “mouthing,” which can sometimes  happen when first retrieving warm, freshly shot birds.

Start by having him stand alongside you and give him several retrieves of dead birds thrown by your partner as the gun is fired. Make him wait until commanded to retrieve; also tap him lightly on the head if you used this technique with the dummies. Have him bring them right to hand and, if he’s at all hesitant, adopt the same tactics as with dummy retrieving backing away, whistling, calling him, etc.

After a couple of sessions of this, provided he has performed well, you can proceed to use the dead birds in conjunction with shooting over him after a point and when a bird has been flushed.

This time, when your partner walks in and flushes the bird, he should shoot but not to hit it. Instead he will have with him a cold dead bird which he will throw, after the shot, in full view of the dog, twenty yards or so in front. The dog’s attention will then be wrested from the departing flyer onto the thrown dead one. The dog won’t know the difference. Pause for the compulsory few seconds, then give the command to retrieve. After doing this another two or three times, leave it for the day. Next time out, you can fire the gun yourself but still have your helper throw the dead bird.

Only now and I make no apologies for being so strict because that is what training is all about may you allow him to retrieve some birds that have actually been shot over him. Remember the rules: your helper to do the shooting; you to watch the dog; check line still on; a quiet pause once the bird has fallen before you send the dog to retrieve, and praise when he delivers to you.

Two or three birds shot and retrieved in one session are enough, and remember to let one or two fly off unscathed with a shot fired in the air. You did this with dummies and he came to understand it; now you’re doing the same with birds, so there’s every reason to believe he’ll understand this too. Like us he must (albeit reluctantly) come to terms with the fact that not all birds that are shot at are brought down.

Once more self-confidence will dictate to you when the check line and choke chain can be removed, and lastly, having had your partner shoot for you for a while, all that remains now is for you to do the shooting yourself.

Bearing in mind that you’re assuming two roles i.e., dog handler and gunner your actions on walking up to your dog when he’s on point are going to be somewhat different now so we’ll go through them from A to Z. First make sure that your gun is loaded (it’s easily forgotten!). Approach your dog from the side or front. Give him a reminder to ”whoa” as you start to kick around in the cover in front of him prior to kicking up the bird. Watch the dog carefully all the time for signs of movement. If he holds well, flush the bird but don’t shoot too soon. Pause for a second or two to look at your dog and to “whoa” him again. Then swing on the bird and shoot. As the bird drops, don’t dwell on where it has fallen; instead, look around immediately at the dog again to be sure he has held. Pause, unload, then send him for the retrieve.

A lot to do, you may think, but in practice it’s done almost without thinking and accomplished in seconds. Take my advice and learn to do this as a routine.

What you have achieved by now, therefore, should convince you that at last you have a dog which is steady to wing and shot. There’s still wild bird hunting to be done of course, which we’ll get around to later. But you have now progressed through the most important and difficult stages of this fascinating (and at times frustrating!) aspect of training.

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Alaska Moose Hunt

Alaskan Yukon Moose, the largest of the moose family, with some of the record class trophies coming from this area. Over the past 13 years, we have placed in the top three 14 times in Alaska’s APHA/SCI awards program. Here at the TSIU Lodge we strive in taking 60 inches or better with our largest reaching 80 inches. If someone was to ask me what the chances are of achieving a trophy class moose, I would say, yes the genetics are there.

Moose season is from September 1 through September 20 in the area we hunt. This area has a moderate population of Moose with very good genetics. R&R Hunting takes no more than 6 hunters a year, with an 85% success rate over the last three years. Since 2007 the average greatest spread has been in excess of 60 inches with several in the high sixty and low seventy-inch range.

Single species Moose hunts are 10 hunting days with a travel day on each end. As with all of our hunts, relocating from one spike camp to another during your Moose hunt is just part of the service we provide. Once a Moose is taken, packers are brought in to get him out.

Moose hunts will cost $18,000 (USD) in 2011. Round trip flights from Anchorage to our base camp, or license and tags, are not included in this price.

Alaska Moose hunting is a lot more than most individuals bargain for. Apart from being one of the most impressive big game species on the earth, they are intelligent animals, weighing up to 1800 pounds, and standing around seven feet at the shoulder. Racks can go 77 inches, although 60 inches is considered very respectable. Simply seeing one of these magnificent animals up close is worth all the effort it can take to hunt them.

Most of this effort comes from the wet, nasty, marsh type country they inhabit. Regardless of whether the bulls are in the foothills, or the swamps, the country is likely to be choked with alder, willow, and every other imaginable obstacle, not to mention the water, and the ever present mud that lives to suck the hip boots right off your feet.

I prefer to hunt moose after the first of September (when the rut gets underway), and calling with a lot of scraping is one of our prime strategies, since this can often bring an individual into close range, and sometimes this is the only option if the country is very thick, and visibility limited. Calling is one of the best techniques for archery hunts also. If you are a rifle hunter we suggest 300 Win MAG or larger, such as .338 Win. Magnum and up, using high quality bullets, such as Winchester Fail Safe, or Swift A-Frames, or the Barnes X bullets. Although moose are not notoriously difficult to put down, it is expedient to put then down swiftly, and on the spot, if possible and not shoot them in the hump on the back.

Game Management Unit 6 and19 provides an opportunity to hunt moose in the remote Alaska wilderness, over 200 miles east and west of Anchorage. The country is timbered up to the 2,500 ft. level and the hunting is spot and stalk in most areas, with calling being used as the season progresses. Moose density is fair to good, with predation being heavier in the unit over the past decade, but trophy quality can be exceptional. The season runs Sept. 1th through the 30th.

Moose /Caribou drop camp list 5 – 7 days

  • Framed backpack
  • Folding saw with bone blade
  • Rifle with 20 – 30 rounds of ammo
  • Binoculars
  • First aid kit  aspirin, antacid  Band-Aids, moleskin, Etc
  • Knives/sharpener
  • Good sleeping bag and pad (recommend down to Zero or -10 degree bag)
  • Hip boots – i.e. Cabela’s “Dry-Plus Breathable Waders” in waist-high stocking foot
  • Clip-on suspenders for waist-high waders
  • Flashlight & batteries
  • Camera w/ extra batteries
  • Water bottle (with filter if you desire)
  • Insect Repellent (100% Deet)
  • Stocking hat/gloves
  • Top Quality Rain Gear – i.e. Helly Hansen Impertech
  • Camp Shoes (insulated leather boots)
  • 1 pair insulated hunting pants
  • 1 pair non-insulated hunting pants – i.e. Cabela’s un-insulated Dry-Plus Pants
  • 2 pair top and bottom insulated underwear, med-heavy weight (DO NOT BRING COTTON)
  • Head net
  • Hunting License and Tags
  • 2 – 3 hunting shirts Heavy weight socks, 1 pair for each day (wool)
  • Heavy coat (with Gore-Tex)
  • Cotton Game Bags
  • Personal Toiletry Items
  • Handheld GPS unit – helpful for finding your way in the wilderness
  •  IRIDIUM Satellite Phone is recommended for Unguided Hunters (1 phone per group). Iridium is about the only satellite phone that works good above all over the state.
  • Batteries: Anything that you bring that requires batteries will require spares! Keep your batteries in something warm (like a wool sock) while you’re in the field – cold will drain the battery.
  • SOFT gun case. When you arrive in Anchorage you’ll be asked to take your rifles out of their hard cases for transportation into the field. If you’d like to keep them in a case, you’ll need to bring a soft case with you!

***** REMINDER: EACH HUNTER IS LIMITED TO 125 POUNDS OF GEAR EACH *****
(Doesn’t include the weight of your rifle)

FOOD AND GEAR RENTAL $750 .00 ON TOP OF PRICE

  • 1 6 Man Guide Model Tent
  • 5 #’s of Potatoes
  • Candy/Granola Bars
  • 1 Stove/4 One Pound Propane Bottles
  • 2 Loaves Bread
  • Instant Oatmeal
  • 2 Cots
  • 5 Onions
  • Hot Cocoa
  • 2 Chairs
  • Jar of Jelly & Coffee
  • 2 Rolls of Toilet Paper
  • Jar of Peanut Butter
  • Tea Bags
  • 1 Tarp Container
  • Cooking Oi
  • l Ramen soup
  • 1 Box Matches/Lighter
  • Gatorade/Kool-Aid
  • Salt & Pepper
  • 1 Cook Set
  • Coffee Mate/Sugar
  • Seasonings
  • 4 Garbage Bags
  • Butter
  • 1 Lantern w/ Mantels
  • 2 Sets of Silverware, Plates, Bowls & Cups

Mountain House Provided for:
Breakfasts, Lunches, Dinners & Desserts

  • 1 or 2 Collapsible Water Containers
  • 1 Roll Paper Towels
  • 1 Dish Soap
  • 10 Quart Size Ziploc Bags
  • 20’ Twine
  • 1 Coffee Pot
  • 4 Game Bags for Meat
  • 1 Basic First Aid Kit
  • Breakfasts include a variety of Oatmeal &
  • Scrambled Eggs (with & without Peppers).
  • Lunch/Dinners include a mixed variety of Chicken, Beef & Pork Entrees – and are DOUBLE servings
  • Desserts include a variety of Blueberry, Chocolate, Strawberry crumbles.

We ask that you please treat the gear as if it was your own, as others will need to rely on it as well. You will be required to pay for damaged/lost equipment.
Do not cook inside your tent. This can deplete oxygen and can damage the tent leaving you without shelter. Use of your camp stove to heat your tent can cause you to run out of propane. Bringing the proper gear will have you outfitted to be comfortable without wasting fuel in this manner.

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Alaska Brown Bear and Grizzly Hunts

 

The great Alaska Brown Bear is certainly one of the most sought after experiences in the hunting world, and the noble creatures are one of my favorite animals as an outfitter. Nothing quite stirs my heart and soul like the sight of a brown bear in the Alaska wilderness, and after our initial early season caribou hunts, brown bear becomes our primary focus for numerous reasons.

The Brown Bears naturally grow big. We have taken many 10 foot plus bears over the year with many skulls over 28 plus. We hunt Brown Bears April through May and September through October. Area permits each hunter to harvest one Brown each regulatory year, which does not count against the harvest of one (l) Brown every (4) years, like in other parts of Alaska.

Interior Grizzly Bears

We conduct hunts for interior Grizzly Bears two different times of the year. Spring hunts start in mid April and go through mid May. Bears are just emerging out of their dens, and are in relatively open country for snow tracking and spot and stalk hunting. This time of year still can be a little chilly, so an extra layer of clothes will be required at times. Our fall hunts are spot and stalk in areas with good berry crops, salmon streams, and Moose hunting areas. Our success rate in recent years has been about 75 to 80 percent, with most of the bears measuring between 7 1/2′ to 8 ‘.

Single species Grizzly hunts are 14 hunting days with a travel day on each end. The cost of this hunt is 2012 is $16,000 (USD). Round trip transportation from

Anchorage to base camp and return, or license and tag fees are not included.

BEAR CAMP – Kodiak, Alaska

Located just on the south end of Kodiak Island in game management area 8 near Olga Bay, lies some of the most prime brown bear habitat on Kodiak Island. It is also rich in salmon streams, and offers a high density of brown bear, as well as the highest concentration of Sitka black bear tail deer on all of Kodiak Island.

How to get there: From the East Coast to Anchorage via Northwest Airlines, for the Midwest and West Coast to Anchorage via American Airlines or Alaskan Airlines from Anchorage to Kodiak Island via ERS or Alaskan Airlines. I will book you air taxi for Kodiak City.
Services Furnished

Upon arrival at Base Camp: sleeping accommodations, all camp equipment,

snowshoes, and food and airplane transportation. Licensed guide for each hunter, field care and arrangements for shipment of all trophies from Base an

d hotel arrangements.

GEAR LIST For Spring Bear

Clothing:

  • 1 pair rain gear; I prefer stretchable PVC  type rain gear. Helly Hansen Impertech is what most of us personally wear. The key here is, easy to dry, and don’t worry about the noise. If you have Gore-Tex you are absolutely confident in then go for it, but nothing stops rain like pvc.
  • 2 pair of fleece, or synthetic pants-avoid heavyweight style (I use Cabalas’ Legacy Fleece and the Wind shear option is preferred in the Spring)
  • 1 down jacket or similar synthetic (essentially a good mid-weight warm layer) Avoid heavy winter style coats.
  • 1 fleece jacket, or pullover-mid weight (Cabalas’ Legacy Fleece or Microtex)
  • 2 thermal shirts, Duofold, Thermax are very good-midweight, or lighter; in my opinion they a simply the best.
  • 1-2 thermal bottoms, (Duofold midweight has two layers of material, 1 layer wool, and 1 of 100% thermax) you should be prepared for temps in the mid 50’s to mid teens with plenty of wind.
  • 3-5 top quality hiking socks, Thorlo’s Mountaineering sock are the best I have found to date. Cost around $17 per pair, but worth it. These are getting more difficult to find and they are fairly bulky for warmer weather or close fitting boots, so I am usually using Thorlo’s Coolmax Light Hiker. Do not, I repeat, do not skimp on socks, or try unfamiliar types for your hunt, buy the best and wear them before the hunt.
  • 1 pair of camp shoes-preferably something lightweight and hunting boots should be of the hiking, mountaineering type. I generally do not recommend anything from hunting outlet stores that pass average work boots off for “hunting boots.” Camouflage doesn’t make a boot tough! My personal recommendation is something by La Sportiva, Scarpa, Lowa, Asolo, or Koflach. I am currently using the La Sportiva Trango S EVO GTX for sheep hunting and for spring bear. Bulky boots do not handle or perform well with snowshoes and there is always a good chance of being on snowshoes.
  • Snowshoes: We have Cabela’s Guide Model Snowshoes available to our clients, but if anyone wants something a step above I use and recommend the MSR Denali EVO with the optional tailpieces. They can be found at www.Campmor.com.
  • Backpacks: I am currently using the Mystery Ranch G 7000 that is made in Montana. Capacities for all packs should be 6,000 cu. in. or more. External frames with similar capacities can be used If necessary. Apart from the Mystery Ranch I would look to Dana Designs and Gregory.
  • 1 large pack cover-waterproof Sleeping bag – Currently I am using the Mont-Bell Super Stretch #2, which is a 25º bag and probably not warm enough for some folks. I use the extra long model and it weighs in at 1 lb. 15oz. and of course it is down. Most people will probably prefer a 0º to 15º bag. The Mont-Bell UltraLong Super Stretch #0 is rated at 0º and weighs in a wonderful 3 lb. 1 oz., while the #1 in the same product line is rated at 15º and weighs in at 2 lb. 7 oz. Long bags are recommended if you are 6’ or taller. Synthetic bags rated between 0º to 20º degrees are fine as well, but a bag weighing 5 lb. is simply not the way to go. Please spend the money and keep your bag under 3.5 lb.
  • Therma-rest self inflating pads are great, and I use the Pro-Lite 4. If full length pads are used they should be the models no wider than 20”s
  • 1 hat, and fleece facemask or similar.
  • Gloves-wool, or any waterproof glove is good, although neoprene tends to sweat, and gets clammy. Outdoor Research Crocodile Gaiters for spring hunts come in handy when snowshoeing, few other brands compare.

Miscellaneous Gear:

  • Knives-avoid overweight Rambo knives. Small capping type knives are preferred.
  • Gun oil and maintenance tools. Critical tools to dismantle rifle in the field may save the day. Minimal weight is the key.
  • GSI Outdoors Lexan® 32 oz. Fairshare Mug and additional small cup for coffee, etc.
  • Nalgene water bottles, at least 1, 32 ounce bottle
  • Spoon
  • Washcloth, towel-lightweight, soap, toothpaste and toothbrush, razor if you are so inclined.
  • Packaged moist towelettes (baby wipes) are great for freshening up. Small bottle of shampoo, etc.
  • Flashlight-small LED headlamp, or similar. Headlamps are certainly preferred. I use a Petzl Myo XP LED.
  • First aid-prescriptions, ibuprofen, gel blister pads.
  • MSR Mini-Works – Water purifiers are recommended if you have concerns about giardia and the State of Alaska recommends their use in all waterways. Binoculars-8×40 minimum, but 10×42, or 10×50 are best, higher grade glasses permit longer viewing with less eye strain, which brings better results in the long run-don’t skimp if you are purchasing for the first time.
  • Spotting scope is optional, but recommended if you are going to constantly want to look through your guide’s scope.
  • Laser rangefinder is optional, as guides pack one.
  • Rifles and cartridges should be discussed prior to the hunter’s arrival. 20 rounds of Ammo should be sufficient, but 30 is not too much.
  • Length of nylon rope has many uses.
  • Emergency space blanket, -Thermo-Lite® Emergency Bivy Sack by Adventure Medical Please do not bring the small aluminum foil type that fit in a shirt pocket  Camp Time Roll-up Pack Stool® or REI Trail Chair or similar. Invaluable when glassing for hours.
  • Sunglasses, Sun block

Weight:

  • Individuals need to keep their gear at 50 pounds max, excluding rifle, due to load constrictions on chartered flights.
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